Why I Love Korea

Post in Partnership with Korea Tourism Organization

When I traveled to Korea for the first time, I knew very little about anything beyond a few basic references: Kimchee, K-Pop and the Korean War. With no pre-conceived ideas, the country was for me, a clean slate. My eyes started popping as soon as my feet touched the ground! I was completely mesmerized by the contrasts of gleaming city versus rural villages, high-tech versus tradition, the beauty of mountains and coast, and THE FOOD! I left Korea dreaming of the next time I can return, with a big list of more to explore, more to do and more to eat.

Korea’s geography -- a peninsula that is surrounded on three sides by the sea, with land that is 70% mountains, combine with the four distinct seasons to create a tantalizing variety of outdoor activities for the active traveler. Hiking, skiing, golf and temple visits are some of the ways to enjoy Korea’s mountains.

Distances between places around Korea are relatively short, and easily accessed by road, Express Bus, Intercity bus and Korea’s efficient rail system. The East is known as the “Sunrise Coast” and is where the 2018 Winter Olympics at PyeongChang were held. North of PyeongChang, near the coastal city of Sokcho, Seoraksan National Park is one of the most famous and scenic areas for hiking. I visited the area of Sinheungsa Temple, taking the cable car up to Gwongeumseong Fortress wall, followed by a lot of steps, (where little old Korean ladies were passing me) to an incredible scenic view at the top of Seoraksan Mountain. The views were breathtaking! Here is a tip: Korea has cherry blossoms in April, and brilliant red and gold Autumn foliage in October, the same as Japan, but with fewer crowds and much lower costs.

View from Seoraksan

Hiking around Korea is available for all levels, including easy – but uphill - walking on paved paths, to the very strenuous “Expert” level. Exploring the mountains’ beautiful natural vistas and waterfalls often includes a visit to a historically significant fortress or Buddhist temple. The Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910) ushered in a new age of Confucianism, pushing Buddhism out of the cities and into the mountains, which explains why all temple visits typically require an uphill walk.

Hiking works up an appetite and markets selling snacks and collections of eateries are typically located near the base area of hiking paths, so you can follow exercise with a meal. I learned that a typical day of leisure for Koreans is exactly that! But even better, following lunch, relax those tired toes with a therapeutic soak in a hot foot bath. What I love: Hike, Eat, Soak!

As with cathedrals in Europe, it’s easy to overload on temples in Korea. Many of them are National Treasures and UNESCO World Heritage Sites, so are featured as highlights on tour itineraries. For those who want an in-depth experience, overnight temple stays are possible at many temples that range from one to multiple-night stays. (I haven’t done one of the overnight stays yet.) Just when I think, “not another temple” an interesting one appears that I don’t want to miss.

I particularly enjoyed the beautiful setting of the one temple that is located at sea-level instead of up on a mountain: Haedong Yonggungsa, situated about 20 minutes from Haeundae Beach in Busan. The temple structure itself is only forty years old, however the site has been the location of a temple for more than 600 years. Instead of walking uphill, you walk down 108 steps, which of course, then you must ascend to leave. But the setting is stunning, and sunrise here is on my “Return to Korea Bucket List”.

Haedong Yonggung Temple

Monk demonstrates Sumnudo

One of the most amazing temple visits that I experienced was to Golgusa Temple, which is located 13 miles outside of the southeastern city of Gyeongju. The temple has caves carved into the limestone rock that are over a thousand years old. However, the fascination here is the monks, who practice Sumnudo. “Sum” is like the Japanese word “Zen” = meditation. Sumnudo is “the way of doing meditative martial arts”. Historically, the monks here combined yoga meditation with martial arts, to form defensive groups to defend against invading Mongols. The present-day monks demonstrate Sumnudo for visitors. It was definitely worth the uphill and upstairs climb! Positively jaw-dropping.

What I love: Scenic Views, Tranquility, Unique Experiences

I would not call myself a “history buff” but I love to understand history in order to form a contextual framework for a place. So, when traveling, visiting museums and historic places, then plugging them into the big picture of life today is an important part of the experience. I am also fascinated by the historical connections between the different countries in the region. That topic is easily a theme for travel around Korea and East Asia!

Korea’s main history prior to the twentieth century is divided into only three, long-lasting periods: Silla, Goryeo and Joseon. The Silla, whose kingdom endured from 57 BCE – 935 CE can be explored in Gyeongju with reconstructions, a museum and newly opened (2018) burial Tumuli. The Joseon Dynasty capital was Seoul, where one can visit royal palaces and gardens. The capital of the Goryeo Kingdom, which united the peninsula and ruled from 918 – 1392 and from whom the name “Korea” is derived, is located in Kaesong, North Korea. A visit to the National Museum covers all of these periods of history, up through the Korean Empire (1897-1910) and is a good foundation for visits to the specific sites around the country.

However it was a visit to the National Museum of Korean Contemporary History that was one of my most memorable visits. It explains Korean history from the opening of the ports in the 1800s and in great detail, the vast and rapid changes of the twentieth century. A visit to this museum isn’t on any standard itinerary to Korea, but should be, for anyone who really wants to understand Korea today. The museum is very well presented, with exhibits that focus on photographs and artifacts, and has an audio guide available in English.

What I love: Gaining Culture Comprehension Through History.

The city skyline of steel and glass towers of more than a hundred stories define Korea as one of the most advanced countries in Asia, and are in striking contrast to the traditional “Hanok” villages. A Hanok is a traditional house whose architecture originated in the 14th century. There are Hanok villages that can be visited throughout Korea. In truth, until I had a full picture of what was available, I found the concept of visiting Hanok villages was quite frustrating. I was eager to see how typical life is lived in this setting, but of course, real people don’t want tourists and strangers peering into their houses and yards. In fact, the traditional house and yard is surrounded by a high wall, and it is only possible to see over a wall if there happens to be a geographical vantage point nearby, or a gate happens to be open. There is the possibility of going into one or two example properties that are open for visitors, but set up like a museum display. Then there is what I call the “Disneyfication” where buildings have been purposely reconstructed, every inch is in perfect condition and impeccably pristine. Along with that goes intensive commercialization – the Hanbok rental shops, souvenirs shops, eateries, staged performances and “Learn to make/do workshop activities. So my frustration lie in the two sets of limitations: authentic and inaccessible versus accessible and touristic.

Strolling Jeonju's Hanok Streets

I think that is important to clarify that when I employ the word “tourism” here, that the majority of Korea’s cultural tourism is domestic, and is created with the intent to educate locals on their own history and traditions. Nonetheless, although English is not widely spoken, ample information is available in English, especially online from tourism offices. And, foreign visitors dressing in Hanbok – Korean traditional clothing – is welcomed and encouraged, not “cultural appropriation.”

So, after having visited a number of Hanok villages around the country, I concluded that a complete picture of history and tradition is best made up of several separate experiences that make the most of what different villages have to offer.

Jeonju is one of the most popular and well-developed Hanok villages for visitors both Korean and foreign alike, as it is an easy 1.5 hours from Seoul by high-speed train. Jeonju was destroyed by Japanese bombings and the Hanok village was reconstructed, but on a more modern scale. Jeonju itself is a big city, with the historic district comprised of over 500 houses. There is a lovely walk up a forested hillside for a great view of the tiled roofs. The back alleys are a delight to wander, with lower fences providing views into the well-tended gardens. Many homes serve as accommodations. The benefit of the extensive development of Jeonju, is that it is a one-stop, comprehensive traditional culture feast, with over a hundred activities to explore every facet. Of course, it is possible to rent Hanbok and many visitors do. It’s a lot of fun to photograph the people who are wearing them! You can also make food, wine and crafts, learn about Confucianism and watch performances. When I return, I will plan for a few days here to take advantage of all that Jeonju, both modern and traditional have to offer.

In contrast, there are Hanok villages that allow visitors (and may charge an entrance fee), but are more conservative in their openness. There might be a few “museum” houses open for display. A great way to have an in-depth experience in an authentic traditional village is to stay overnight in a Hanok house, and include meals in homes.

Hahoe Village, Andong

By combining experiences at a variety of Hanok villages around Korea, it is possible to gain a more complete picture of how tradition and culture mix with present-day life.

What I love: Photo ops, wandering alleyways; historic house visits, trying the wide variety of snacks and cuisine styles available, meeting people, learning to make things!

And finally, there is Korean FOOD. I must admit that I did not know very much about Korean cuisine before this trip. Here are some things that I learned:

• Any type of meal that involves a table hotpot or grill is sold by the portion, with two being the minimum. Even if you offer to pay for two people, they don’t want to serve a single diner. (At least, not me!) If dining solo, one dish meals, street market food or fried chicken (cold leftovers are great!) are the way to go.

• A traditional Korean meal is made up of a protein accompanied by many side dishes, a mixture of spicy, salty and sweet flavors. The dishes are set in the middle and each person serves themselves from the shared plates. It is common to sit on cushions on the floor and shoes are removed at the entrance.

• Often an entire street will feature a single main dish: chicken, or pork or beef. So many restaurants serving the same thing? Well, it is the side dishes that set them apart!

• Travel Tip: I always carry a large, cloth napkin with me in Asia, because as is typical in many countries, there are no napkins, only tiny little tissues and I like a big napkin that covers my lap. I bring polyester ones that I can easily wash out and dry overnight in my hotel room. Easier than washing my clothes if I drop food.

Royal Cuisine, Choe House, Gyeongju

I ate roasted mackerel with cold buckwheat noodles, Royal Cuisine served on copper plates, Street Market food, fried chicken, Jeju Black beef grilled at the table in a Michelin-starred restaurant, Jeju black pork cooked on a tabletop pot, and a very fine Korean-Italian fusion meal that was delicious and visually exquisite. I loved it all. Finally, on my last night in Korea, I had Hweh – Korean raw fish, sometimes called sashimi for Western understanding, however is nothing like the Japanese version. For Hweh, the fish is swimming in a tank until it’s sliced and served as the main feature, but is preceded by many side dishes of vegetables, cooked fish, rice, pickles and - unexpected but delicious - corn covered in melted cheese! The meal ends with a soup made from the fish bones. It was amazing. And yes, I ate the squirming octopus. Joyfully. I love Korean food!

The Hweh platter arrives on an already loaded table

And although I had no time to shop, I picked up a very comfortable, cute pair of shoes in a train station concourse as we were waiting to board. Shopping is on my list for next time too.

One more thing I was determined to do and finally fit in on my final day in Korea, was to go to a jjimjilbang – public bath house, where I steamed and soaked and got thoroughly scrubbed. On another day, I had a truly luxurious facial at Sulwahsoo. Both left me feeling pampered and I can’t wait to go back and do those again. I think the theme for my next trip to Korea will be "BLISS!"

There is much to love about Korea: The beauty and bounty of nature, a long history with a vibrant culture expressed in art, music, design, architecture and cuisine. Tranquil spaces and buzzy, gleaming cities. But truly one of the joys that made my journey to Korea memorable, was the warmth and hospitality of the people, everywhere I went. I can’t wait to return and find more to love!

Transparency Note: I traveled to Korea in 2018, courtesy of the Korea National Tourism Organization. This post is in partnership with the Korea Tourism Office, New York. There are no affiliate links in this post: links are for reference only.